Monday, February 11, 2008

Ocean Fusion BVI Kitesurfari 2008

26th January

After a 4.30 wake-up call we set-off to the bus-stop to get the number 17 to London Bridge followed by a short train ride to Gatwick. We had more than enough time and ended-up freezing on the platform for 45 minutes waiting for the train and arriving at check-in almost 4 hours before the flight. With no sign of the guys we were travelling with we decided to get all our stuff checked-in and sort out some cash for the trip. Half an hour later we still couldn’t see anyone else with kite-bags and were starting to worry whether anyone else would show. A quick call to Royce (our skipper for the trip) confirmed they were running a bit late and we should go through security and catch them at the gate. After some light shopping and a coffee we headed for the gate and met Royce, Roz, Sarge and Phil for the first time, which reassured us we weren’t part of a major holiday scam.

The flight was busy but comfortable with plenty of films to keep us occupied. We arrived in Antigua about 7 hours later to bright sunshine, 27 degrees and a pleasant breeze. Sitting on the grass outside the airport we soaked up the sun and got to know each other a little better. Jabberwock beach is only a short ride from the airport so we decided to check out the first kite-spot of the trip. Unfortunately there wasn’t much wind but we were able to check out the temperature of the clear, turquoise water; approximately that of warm bath water, and confirm that we would only need board shorts and rashies for the whole trip.

Back to the airport we had a nutritious meal of hot dogs and beer before jumping on the small LIAT turbo prop for the last leg of the journey from Antigua to Tortola. We arrived at Beef Island airport Tortola in the dark a little weary. Despite our concerns we were relieved to see that all of our kit had also arrived safely. The transfer from the airport to the marina was a short 15 minute journey in an open-air “taxi” and took us to the end of our 20 hours travelling. We unloaded all our kit and managed to find our boat which was going to be home for the next two weeks. A quick tour confirmed that the catamaran was awesome, four double en-suite bedrooms with sea views and skylights, a large well-equipped kitchen/diner, outside seating area, sunbathing on the trapeze, the accommodation was spot-on. Excited about setting-off the next day we all had showers to freshen-up (in what are possibly the best showers in the world...ever) and after a couple of beers and making a start on the complimentary bottle of rum we got an earlyish night.

27th January – Day 1 on the boat

The sun got us up early and we were all keen to see the marina in the daylight. Setting the scene for the voyage the marina certainly met our expectations of how a Caribbean kitesurfari should begin. Crystal clear turquoise waters surrounded by lush green hills, colourful boats, bright blue skies, pelicans, luxurious swimming pool and of course the unforgettable high class showers; consisting of spacious air conditioned marble tiled wet rooms with a massive drenching ceiling mounted shower head as well as a wall attachment. A hectic morning followed stocking-up the boat with the food for the trip, buying beers, safety briefings, getting cool boxes and a supply ice, sorting out kite-kit and choosing snorkels and fins for the trip. By 12.30 we were all ready to go and after Royce had given Steve and Sarge a training session in the rib we cast-off.

Out on the open ocean we made our way to a good snorkelling spot by some caves near Pelican rock. The wind forecast for the first couple of days was poor so it was decided we’d take our time getting to the best spots and make sure we got to see all the attractions on the way. A couple of the crew members were concerned they may experience sea sickness and took a combination of drugs and natural remedies to try and counteract any ill-effects.

When we got to the caves we all dived in to check-out the wildlife under the water. We spotted jellyfish (luckily avoided), pipefish and loads of other brightly coloured fish. After the snorkelling we headed for a mooring on nearby Norman Island. As the sun went down we chilled out on deck with some beers and watched the pelicans catching fish. That evening we went over to a local bar to listen to some reggae music, it was a quiet night and everyone left the bar early on, we decided to leave and check out the “party boat” across the way. A short journey on the rib and we found where everyone was partying and had our first experience of the yachting social scene; which seemed to consist largely of groups of middle-aged pissed men and what Sarge decided were swinging couples. The party boat was definitely a good place for people watching and Phil enjoyed a good boogie on the dance floor, the highlight of the evening was when a large group of very drunk Americans left the boat and made their wobbly way to the rib. One of the members of the party was so inebriated he fell backwards off the rib fully clothed and it then took four people to haul him out. At one point we did worry he was going to give up the struggle and just drift off under the water but luckily they persevered and managed to get him beached on the jetty.

28th January – Day 2 on the boat

Another beautiful sunny day. We enjoyed brekkie on the deck watching the fish below. Despite it being 38 feet deep the bottom was clearly visible and we could see leopard rays and puffer fish cruising along beneath us. The first stop of the day was at Dead Man’s Bay on Peter Island where there was a picture postcard beach and a potential kitesurfing spot on the windward side. We swam in to chill on the beach and wandered over to the other side of the island passing an exclusive spa. There were lots of Pelicans and a slight breeze but not enough to kite. We had a quick snorkel but the dark water beyond the reef looked a bit deep and Phil’s comment that he had seen sharks here the year before made us a little cautious so we went back to the snorkelling on the other side of the island.

After lunch and some more chilling we headed onwards to our mooring for the night at Manchioneel Bay on Cooper Island. That evening we had a bit of a jolly in the tender before settling down for beers and food.

29th January – Day 3 on the boat

After breakfast we set-off for the Baths on Virgin Gorda. The weather was a little cloudy and the seas quite choppy so by the time we moored a couple of the crew members were turning a bit green. Keen to get on land we clambered into the heaving rib. Half of the crew were deposited near the far beach to swim in and meet-up with Phil who was lazing on the rock after swimming from the catamaran the other half moored the rib nearer the Baths. We walked inland along the road and descended down to the Baths.

The Baths is a group of naturally formed boulders on the beach that form grottos and pools you can climb through, snorkel and explore. We wandered through the rocks checking out the different caves and the more adventurous climbed up the rocks to get different views of the beach and boats. At the end we had a nice swim in the surf and Phil tried to mount a rock. We spotted a couple of Barbie and Ken types with matching swimwear and chic sunglasses. Unfortunately the Ken of the couple had gotten a little aroused whilst his girlfriend was bent over taking off some of her clothes, to our amusement his v tight shorts left very little to the imagination as he wandered down to the sea.

We made our way back through the caves we swam to the rib and managed to scramble back on board in the high seas and headed onwards to the Bitter End Yacht Club and moored near Saba Rock passing by Branson’s island on the way. The rough seas subsided as we made our way into the flat water between the islands and the sun came out to provide more picture postcard views of sun, sea and boats. There was a little wind so we chucked all our kit into the rib and headed to a beach round the corner that could work in this direction. Unfortunately the wind dropped right off and there was no way we were going to get any kiting so we went back to the boat and to shore to take advantage of the marina showers.

We ate ashore that night, had some beers and challenged some guys and girls to killer pool. The girls put on a good show but lucked out in the end and Sarge won.

30th January – Day 4 on the boat

We woke-up to decent wind coming through the gap between the islands and wasted no time getting our kit together and setting-off to the nearest beach. Phil was first out on the water and Steve, Sarge and I quickly followed. The wind was around 16/17 knots but a bit up and down, enough for us to cruise around and check out the island on the opposite side but not enough to get up to the reef or do any decent jumps. It was a great first session though to warm up for the rest of the trip and I got to see my first turtle as I was cruising along; the little dude was getting some air just in front of me and as soon as he clocked me coming towards him he dived back down. After a couple of hours we stopped for lunch and a siesta back at the boat whilst Chris had his first kite lesson with Royce on the foil.

The wind picked-up again in the evening and we had another session with a bit more power so we could start getting some jumps. Unfortunately once Royce arrived the wind dropped right down so he didn’t get the chance to head out. Back at the boat we had our first BBQ and, as usual, some beers before hitting the sack.

31st January – Day 5 on the boat

The wind first thing was pretty good and we headed out for our morning session. It wasn’t really enough though so we all came back in fairly early, except Phil who ended-up on a downwinder past the boat. I came close to taking the turtles poor head-off as I cruised along but luckily he got out of the way just in time.

In the afternoon the wind seemed to pick-up but once we set-up wasn’t really enough. Phil ended-up on the beach opposite and Steve and Sarge came back in. I had a good session on the 13m Instinct Edge and got the chance to practice some jumps and rotations. A squally shower came in and the wind switched direction to an off-shore. This proved a difficult launch but Royce and Steve managed to get out. Royce finally got a decent session after two burst bladders and having the effect of killing the wind whenever he even thought about kiting. Phil was in the ideal place on the island opposite and had a great time, but Sarge didn’t quite make it out and we had to do a boat rescue after his kite inverted and ditched. I spent the rest of the session helping with the sketchy launch and landings.

After dinner we went ashore for some rocktails and to watch the Moray eel and lobsters fighting it out in the pool on the deck at Saba Rock.

1st February – Day 6 on the boat

We left Saba Rock and headed to Spanish Town on Virgin Gorda to re-stock before making the crossing to Anegada. After getting so used to the boat I found myself getting landsick in the supermarket and had to go and sit outside. We sailed the crossing in 6-7 foot waves, it was great fun sitting up the front where you got the full effect of the waves. Sarge and Steve felt a bit worse for wear but sat it out on deck watching the horizon. We all got the chance to take the helm and practice steering the boat. There was some stormy weather coming in at the end of the crossing and we saw a cool rainbow as the rain descended. Once we made it to Anegada we found a mooring close to shore that would be good for getting some kiting, and narrowly avoided running aground on the sandy bottom. First impressions of the coral atoll were that it was very different to the rest of the islands; much flatter, less developed and also a lot quieter. Everyone was tired from the crossing so we had an early night.

2nd February – Day 7 on the boat

We woke up to good wind and got out kiting as soon as possible setting-up on the nearby beach. The wind was a little gusty but strong enough for everyone to have lots of fun. After a couple of hours we stopped for lunch and a siesta. In the afternoon we headed to the local bar to get a taxi for a downwinder and try out the flat water in front of the reef. The taxi driver dropped us at a dodgy tiny strip of beach in front of a building site that was covered in Steve’s favourite spiky plants. Phil was the first to set-up and get out as usual but the dodgy beach slowed the rest of us down. By the time I got out there were big storm clouds gathering on the horizon and the wind was picking-up with the incoming rain. I headed back to the beach to land before it went crazy and warn Sarge and Ste it was a bad idea to launch. Phil and I managed to land but unfortunately Phil had broken his board. With the bad weather and likely calm following the rain we decided to call it a day and get a lift back with the taxi driver who had come to pick-up the pump and bags. We were gutted we didn’t get to do the downwinder and had a couple of beers at the bar to console ourselves. That evening we headed to a local restaurant and had bbq lobster which was awesome.

3rd February – Day 8 on the boat

The conditions looked bad when we woke up, stormy skies and rain didn’t bode well for good kiting. We all sat around chilling out and reading hoping it would clear up. Phil decided to go on a recce mission round the headland to check out other possible spots. He came back with news of an awesome spot round the corner with perfect cross-on wind, flat water and a bit of reef. We wasted no time chucking all our gear in the rib. A 10-15 minute journey round the headland passing small cottages and a private helicopter and we could see the kites flying at the spot. We picked our way through the reef and finally got to beach. It was indeed a perfect spot with flat turquoise water and some nice little waves to play in, although the reef made coming back in a bit sketchy. Sarge, Phil, Steve and I had an amazing time burning up and down and we got some great photos. Royce joined us later and Chris had the chance to get another lesson.

We chatted to the other kitesurfers and found out they’d got a company helicopter across from St Thomas to come and play for the day, now that’s the type of job I want! Everyone kited until they were absolutely knackered and it wasn’t til about 4.00 that we realised we hadn’t had any lunch and should probably head back. The journey back seemed to take ages with the waves crashing over the boat and everyone hungry. When we got back we were all knackered and spent the evening eating and chilling out. We found that unfortunately because of the waves crashing over the rib and the failure of my two plastic bag waterproofing system our camera had got wet and was no longer working. Luckily we later managed to recover the photos from the memory card.

4th February – Day 9 on the boat

For our last day on Anegada we headed to shore and got a taxi across to Loblolly Bay. The beach was really nice with a good restaurant, some benches and parasols and hammocks under the trees. Conditions were really good although the wind dropped off a little towards the end. We all had great sessions but didn’t quite have the same level of energy we’d had the day before. Lunch was really nice and we all had a post lunch snooze. At 5.00 we got a taxi back to the other side of the island, Steve was keen to have another session but didn’t go out in the end. Instead we watched a rider on a Flexi Ion 2 having a great time going back up wind to his boat, he was really good and kited right up near our cat before pulling a very stylish slim just in front of us. That evening we went to shore to charge our electronic equipment, play poker and drink.

5th February – Day 10 on the boat

We got up slowly and Royce took Chris for another lesson. Around lunchtime we made preparations to leave Anegada, the plan was for Royce and Chris to sail the cat back and the rest of us to kite the 17 nautical miles back across to Scrub Island. We all waited on the beach as the boat headed out through the channel in the reef. Sarge was first up and made his way out following the boat. I was next and after a dodgy launch managed to get going. Steve was next and finally Phil self launched to get clear of the beach. Unfortunately a couple of hundred yards out Steve looped the kite and ended-up ditching, he managed to re-launch but got into trouble again and ditched the kite with no hope of recovery. Phil kited past and went to let the boat know he would need a rescue. After an age Steve got rescued and the boat finally caught up with the rest of us who had been hanging about. We continued with the crossing, Sarge at the front, Phil buzzing the boat, going in front and then coming back to check-up on me at the rear. The crossing was far from easy, with limited experience of downwinders I found that whenever I tried to gybe I keep falling off my board, and with 6-7 foot seas it was really difficult to kite normally. After falling in numerous times, losing my hat, losing my board, getting really bad muscle burn in my right thigh from being on one tack and worrying each time I ended up body dragging I would look like attractive shark bait I thought I wouldn’t make it. At one point we were right in the middle of nowhere, Anegada was out of sight and the island we were heading to was just a hazy green blur, I was tired and thirsty and did consider giving up but I stuck with it. I didn’t get too far behind everyone else and managed to cling on. As the island ahead came into focus and the seas dropped I was excited that I was actually going to make it. I could see Phil checking out possible landing spots on the island and saw him land on the left hand side followed closely by Sarge. The boat headed on into the harbour and I finally got right near to the shore. Unfortunately I didn’t hear Phil’s warning about the reef and suggestion I sail right in until I had landed the kite. The reef was indeed evilly sharp and staggering in on jelly legs was really difficult. It had taken over 3 hours to do the 17 nautical miles as the crow flies (much more with all the tacking) and we were tired and thirsty but it was an awesome experience. That night we moored at Marina Cay and had a few quiet beers to celebrate.

6th February Day 11 on the boat

We left Marina Cay in a tropical storm and stopped at Monkey Point to try and lose the rain. We all had a good snorkel and saw loads of fish: barracuda, parrot fish, tarpon and shoals of little fish. Dropping food into the water drew them all in and we got some good under water photos. Once the rain had cleared we headed onwards to Sandy Spit to check for wind. It was up and down with the rain but Steve, Sarge and Phil managed to get a session. I was happy to be kite monkey for the afternoon as I was knackered from the crossing. We had to rescue Phil from the island opposite as he’d ended-up on a downwinder as usual. That night we anchored in Great Bay on Jost Van Dyke. A yacht race that day meant that it was really busy and we all headed out for a meal. Sarge made the fatal mistake of asking for the “largest lobster” the restaurant had and was hit with a bill for $157!!! After the meal we headed on to Foxy’s and had a good laugh.

7th February Day 12 on the boat

Our last day on the boat started off quite rainy. We had a slow start leaving Great Bay and moving on to White Bay. Another picture postcard beach greeted us and the sun came out. We swam ashore and spent some time wandering on the beach where I saw possibly the greatest invention ever: a floating trampoline – awesome! We did some more snorkelling and were lucky enough to see a large stingray cruising along beneath us, heeding what happened to Steve Irwin we decided not to chase it. After lunch we moved on to Sandy Cay for the final session of the trip. Luckily there was enough wind for us all to get out and have a buzz around. Phil decided to take the last session a little further and disappeared off on a downwinder visiting all the surrounding islands. After a while we had to go and rescue him in the cat, Royce wasn’t best pleased as if he’d ditched his kite it would have been very difficult to find him and get back to the marina before nightfall. We managed to pick him up ok and made our way on our final voyage back to Road Town.

Making the most of the last journey we spent our time up the front of the boat holding onto the mast and jumping up and down. As we went over the waves to our amusement we managed to get airborne for a short time and were all giggling like school girls on a fair ground ride. Everyone was sad it was the last day but getting back to the marina taking advantage of the awesome showers made up for it. Roz made a fantastic one pot wonder from the remaining tins and we tried to drink what we had left and swap photos on the laptop.

8th February

We woke up early and started to pack up our kit. Everyone had plenty of time to sort out their gear, tidy up the boat and take good advantage of the great showers. Chris headed-off first to get his flight to Canada. Sarge was next to get his flight onwards to more adventure in Puerto Rico. The rest of us were last to leave to get our short flight to Antigua, followed by a quick turnaround onto the plane to Gatwick. The flight was very quiet and we had a relaxing journey home with a row of seats each.

So did the trip that was billed as “the trip of your life” live up to expectations? In the words of Roz, “heck yeah” and some, the whole trip was amazing, we couldn’t have asked for a nicer group of people, more perfect location, great boat and most importantly the most awesome kitesurfing conditions.